Monday, January 7, 2008

Last Week Recollections and Semester Abroad Reflections

Well, I am trying to reminder the blur of the last week at Hamburg....and I can't do it justice. I'm sorry!

I know that I visited once more with Almut, Tante Maria, and Tante Eva and that we all had a special time together.

With the Wohnenbene, we had a goodbye party at an Australian restaurant. Good people there.

On Sunday, I dressed up as Santa Claus and ran two loops around the Binnenalster as part of a charity run for children. The organizers were trying to set a record and beat Liverpool, which draws in around 4000 Santas per year. Hamburg i think only had around 2500. It was nevertheless cool. On my second lap, I thought.."Man, today's my last day in Hamburg...in Germany."

I am very thankful for this opportunity to get to know another culture, to be able to travel every weekend and participate in a running event alongside Germans, to spent priceless time with members of my family, and for the opportunity to learn what it means to be an American. It took living outside of the US to learn what I so greatly appreciate about it.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Sondershausen

On Monday evening, I met Almut in the city to go to the Christmas market. It was cold and rainy, but we nevertheless walked through the city among the numerous vending booths. Spiced hot wine is the best cure for coldness, and we stopped twice to warm ourselves up.

On Tuesday, I took the metro to the eastern-most stop at Wedel where Helmuth lives. His wife was the best friend of my grandmother, and my mother spent time with the family, both in Germany and in New York City later.

We met at the ticket machines and drove past a giant statue of Roland in the time square. I asked if I could get out to take a picture, which I did. He objectively described how the city once looked before the war in comparison to now. It’s so sad to hear this in about every city or village I visit. We then went to a bakery to buy some cakes for the afternoon.

At his home, we sat and talked for three or so hours drinking tea and slowly dividing and savoring the pastries as we talked about his family, my family, his job, and his time as an officer by the German Army. It’s a rare privilege when World War 2 veterans open up and talk about their somber memories to an ignorant youth, especially when the veteran was once an enemy of my country.

On Wednesday, the head officer in this Wohnebene, hosted a small get-together. I find it very interesting that almost every German thinks that the beer out of their region is the best. Since Rene comes from Dresden, Radelberger Pilsner was provided!

On Friday, I took the long and complex trip to Sondershausen in Thuringen in central Germany. I walked immediately to the youth hostel and dropped off my bag. I then walked down to the city center and visited the palace, the old guardhouse, the Christmas market, and some other old buildings and churches. Germany, and probably most of Europe, is so interesting because almost every village has something old, historic, and/or beautiful in it worth looking at. When describing where I was going to run a marathon, nobody had heard of Sondershausen, and for a no-name town, it was nevertheless worth the trip, run or no run! Then I think of the hundreds of villages and cities in Germany that I have never seen…

I went to the market and bought some food for dinner and walked back through rain to the hostel. I wrote some postcards to friends and family, ate, talked briefly on the phone, and went to bed. Providentially, nobody else shared the hostel room. What a deal that hostel was, comparable to a 90 Euro a night hotel room! I was alone in the room with an awesome breakfast buffet for only 12 Euros!

During the early breakfast, I talked to a man from Finland and two Germans, one of whom drove me to the race location about 6 kilometers away, saving me a annoying walk before the run and/or the taxi ride.

I picked up my start number, changed, and put on my mandatory helmet. The marathon took place in an active salt mine. The 700 m descend in pitch black lasted 3 minutes. I only wished the run had lasted that long too…

What a psychological nightmare that run was. First, it was so hot and dry that I finished the race with totally dry clothes. Normally they are soaking wet. Once, I spilled water on me while running and drying to drink…in five minutes, it was dry. My head was on fire, and my thumbs felt like hot potatoes. Second, the course followed the same course that the miners had followed when mining for salt…up and down constantly on a somewhat slippery salt bed surface with an elevation change of 1300 meters. Most psychotic, I think, was the almost pitch-blackness. Four laps through the mine left me somewhat delusional...I had no way to gauge distance or how far I had run. The corridors were nearly all the same with a dim light fixture barely lighting up the path in front of me. The water stations ever 2.5 kilometers did more than just hydrate me, they helped break apart the utter loneliness. Most of the time, I was alone deep in the earth, not even able to see my shoes. I can’t even count the number of times that I wanted to run down one of the many roped-off corridors and hide behind a big machine and just sit there, hiding from myself and the race I should be running. The elevator to the surface was the most appealing, but way too far away. I would have to say that the last lap, the last hour was the most serious gut check I have ever had to content with. In addition to the natural muscle soreness, I felt something after the race that I have never really felt after a marathon or half marathon: absolute spiritual/emotional fatigue.

I am glad that this was not my first endurance race; it would have left such an impression on me that I would never sign up for another again, much less pay for one! It wasn’t really a marathon either…the fastest time was around 3 hours and eleven minutes, a whole hour slower than what the winner at a regular marathon would run; less than 30 of the 430 participants ran under 4 hours. Yet it was an experience I don’t think I will forget. I think and hope that it has prepared me for some of the major challenges that life will throw my way.

It felt so good to ride back up the surface and breathe once again the cold fresh air. I took a shower and prayed that somebody would offer to take me to the train station. Within a second, a car pulled up and a man asked if I would like to ride with him. He asked where I wanted to go, I said “North, towards Hamburg,” hoping that he too had to drive North and I could take the train from wherever his home was. He, on the other hand, lives in Freiburg…south. I told him I didn’t care, I would ride with him south to a major city and take a faster, director train. This I told him gave me the chance to see more of the German countryside and speak with a German. We talked for a while until we found out that his journey on the autobahn was going to sideline major German cities, and that the drive from the outskirts into the city would require 20 minutes. We then planned for him to drop me off at a gas station where I would call a taxi. Luckily, we saw a bus in the distance. Like a true German, he speed up, overtook it, and parked along side it. I asked the driver the bus’ direction, and he said the best thing ever: Erfurt, a major German town! I wasn’t even able to give him proper thanks and goodbye!

I took the bus to Erfurt and had to wait an hour before the journey from the train station. During this time, I ate and ended up talking to a German man as we stood at a booth.

It was a long, long day before I ended up making it back to Hamburg, and I don’t remember really falling asleep. I am thankful that I did set my alarm though, because I woke up really late in the morning and I was meeting Aunt Eva at Dammtor for lunch.

We went out to eat together in the Gansemarkt district and then walked to a mall where we had some afternoon coffee. I enjoyed those four hours with her in constant conversation. I learn so much from these experiences.

Bremerhaven and missed run

On Wednesday, the workers finally installed the electrical for the new fridges. One had to be careful with meat and dairy with the old ones, as they didn’t keep anything cool. During the two weeks that the workers drilled away the old fridges and installed the new ones, we divided up the drink fridge. The only bummer is that there aren’t enough spaces for everybody, resulting in the usual drama about who gets less space and has to share!

On Thursday, Michael, a first year armor officer here, invited me to play soccer with some of his friends at 10pm at the same indoor sport court that I played earlier with Torben. That was a lot of fun, and we came back and made pancakes and eggs at midnight as we talked about Germany, specifically growing up in East Germany before the reunification.

On Friday, I took the train to Bremerhaven to see Opa and Ingrid again. They picked us up at the train station and then drove to the market to get the food for dinner. We wanted to go to the Christmas Market, but it was cold and rainy and we decided to put our eggs in the basket and hope that the weather tomorrow would be better. We then went back into the store and bought two bottles of spiced holiday wine. Dinner on their wood stove came in stages, and we sat there and talked with candlelight sipping the Gluehwein until we could no longer see. At 8, we were in bed! I actually feel asleep then at the early hour and slept until 1am. I tossed until about 2:30, and then finally decided to go back into the kitchen, light some candles, and read. The “small” things in life I have definitely taken for granted!

We woke up with the break of light and had classic German breakfast: open faced sandwiches with butter, cheese, and meat. Opa wasn’t feeling to well, so Ingrid and I walked to the market to get some daily groceries and water. She’s such a nice, hardworking lady. Opa had looked so content and happy and he saw her standing there at the table the night before, with one fork stuck into a hot potato while she peeled it with a knife. We both looked at each other and didn’t say anything, but I think we both thought of our mothers and how they too had struck the same pose.

When we came back, we took the walk to the pedestrian zone and walked through the Christmas market and the mall, stopping twice to buy a small slice of pizza and a scoop of ice cream. It was lavishly laid out, and the kiosks were very attractive, but one could just sense the city’s poverty. In other years, perhaps these booths would have been more successful, but it seemed like the multitudes just couldn’t afford to dish out. It almost seemed like walking through an art museum where everybody looks but doesn’t buy.

The long two and half hour stroll, despite the cold air, was good for all of us. We went back to their flat, where I cooked them pancakes from the pre-prepared mix. It was only four, and I figured that it was just a small late-afternoon snack after not having lunch. I had forgotten, however, that the sun sets so early up in the North and therefore my snack filled us up before dinner! After eating the pork, nobody had any desire to eat the potatoes and vegetables that had been cooking on the wood stove. I felt kind of bad.

I had been planning earlier to leave on Sunday morning, but it was an almost pitch-black quarter after five and he had to work the night shift the next day. We decided to drive me then to the train station where, after buying my ticket, sat in the car and talked before saying our goodbyes.

On Saturday night and again Sunday morning, I did my usual pre-run planning, using google maps, the German rail system, and the Hamburg transpo system’s websites in order to find out where my race was and when I had to leave. I had it all figured out, and arrived early to Schenefeld, east of Hamburg. I walked around as they were setting up their own Christmas market, but I couldn’t see any runners… I was the only dimwit wearing a track jacket warmup suit. Finally I asked where the run was. Turns out, there’s another Schenefeld, but it’s not part of Hamburg, but rather up north in Schleswig-Holstein. I think I was more embarrassed than angry, and I am thankful that I hadn’t paid any money up front and that I hadn’t screwed up like this on one of the weekends in which I ran with Nathanael.

I took the long way back to Hamburg (ie. took the wrong bus lines) and decided to run the loop through the Planten und Blomen park in Hamburg near Dammtor. I had paid for a locker and was running with only my camera, but didn’t take any pictures because frankly, most of the flowers were “hibernating.” Should have done this earlier!

Not one of my best days. I spilled my dinner on the floor while cooking, and I am afraid now to tie my shoes: I’de probably tear a shoe lace.

Gerolstein and Trier

Last year at West Point, I received an email informing me that I was going to be hosting a German officer. When I said goodbye to Christoph two weeks later, I didn’t quite think I’d see him again. When I found out that I received the slot to study here in Germany, I also sent him an email (which he never received with his deleted account). With providence’s hand, we both ended up in the same class and realized it when the professor took roll for the first time. Long story, short.

So on Friday, I drove with Christoph and his girlfriend from Hamburg to Gerolstein. You don’t know it, but you’ve probably drunken out of bottled Gerolsteiner mineral water. I’ve seen them often in the US. We first visited her parents and had catch-up talk with goulash before going to his home pretty late. It was a late arrival, but they were so excited to see Christoph that we ended up chit-chatting an hour or so before we realized that we hadn’t cooked the food waiting in the kitchen!

We woke up at around 8, and Christoph went to the tire shop to change to winter tires while I stayed behind and wrote some postcards. We had breakfast, picked up Susi, and drove to Spangdahlem Air Force base because they wanted to shop and buy American food at the post exchange. I used my military id to get them visitors’ passes, and Susi got to visit “America!. Christoph had been stationed there before on a security detail and we saw his old office. They bought things like doughnuts, poptarts, and while I bought some Dr. Pepper, peanut butter, and jerky to share with the Wohnebene. I can’t say that I was too happy to be in America in that moment, but they sure were happy to visit the PX!

We then drove to Trier, one of the oldest cities in Germany located near the border with Luxembourg. What a cool city that is. Susi had some major tests on Monday, so we dropped her off at a café to study while Christoph and I visited the main sites on foot. Trier was an old Roman city, and therefore some major points were the Black Gate and Constantine’s thermal bath. We saw a direction sign pointing towards “Amphitheatre” and took the relatively long walk towards it. I am glad that we did, as this was probably the coolest site in the city: an old gladiatorial arena. Along the sites were various cell blocks, and underneath was a cavernous maze with more cells blocks and what were probably stalls for the animals. To walk out from the pitch blackness and into the light was quite awing, especially one considers the multitudes of Christians, Jews, prisoners, animals, and gladiators who too made that walk, for the last time. We were both quite freezing after all of this, and ordered some Gluehwein on the way back to Susi. Magic!

Once the sun went down and we could no longer sea, we ate dinner (the beef liver with apples and onions tasted like home) and then went to a movie. It was late by the time we got home, but both parents had waited up for us as they had bought a large selection of Belgian beers that they wanted to sample with us. We sat there around the wooden table with bread and cheese and divvied each bottle one by one with good conversation into the wee hours of the morning.

On Sunday, we woke up and went to a memorial service in Gerolstein that honored the area’s victims of war and violence (Volkstrauertag). It was a rainy and out in the woods, fitting conditions for the somber music and reflective speeches by a lieutenant colonel, a catholic priest, and a protestant reverend.

While Christoph’s mother cooked, Heinz showed me his family’s rock and fossil collection. It was hard to believe that this mountaneous region had once been completely immerged under water. I actually enjoyed being back in the hills, as it reminded me of home and West Point. Up north in Hamburg is too flat!

The rouladen, knoedel, and rotkohl were excellent, and we procrastinated our long drive back with digestifs and cigarillos. When we finally hit the wet road, it was near freezing, but the little traffic allowed us to arrive back in Hamburg two hours quicker than expected.

It was my first weekend in Germany without a half-marathon, and so I took the opportunity to run the loop around the Binnen and Aussen Alster water masses in central downtown Hamburg. I was an idiot and forgot my camera, and lost the opportunity to take pictures of the city from the natural paths along the water bank!

Another weekend with Nathanael in Hamburg

One thing that has made this semester very interesting are the train strikes. Providentially on my end, they seem to be striking mostly during the week in order to impact the most workers, but they’ve also done weekend strikes. I was therefore not expecting Nathanael to make the trip from Essen to Hamburg on Friday and arrive at 7pm. To my surprise and excitement, I got a call from him, telling me that he had caught a 5pm arrival train, and that he was only one of the few people on it, because everybody thought that the train had been canceled!

It was a cold Hamburg night, but we locked up his kit in a rentable locker and walked around again through the streets, in and out of shops, and stopped at the bakeries to try something new. We then got some ice cream and sat outside on the docks of the Alster. We also bought some postcards, which we wrote together in my room to family for Thanksgiving and Geoff and Andrea’s birthdays.

Nathanael said that he wanted to soak up daylight, so we woke up early, did some pushups/situps, and ate breakfast, taking the tram, and arriving in the city at 9am. We bought tickets for the first harbor boatride tour, and then bought postage stamps for the letters while we waited for lunch. I hadn’t fully grasped earlier Hamburg harbor’s immensity and complexity, and I furthermore found the Speicherstadt warehouse district to be fascinating. There is so much to Hamburg’s harbor that needs to be seen from a narrow, short boat! After that, we went to a market and bought some cheese, yogurt, and red beets for lunch before we then jumped on a city bus tour, one in which the entire trip lasts less than 2 hours but ticket holders can exit at a site that interests them and then reboard the next bus 30 minutes later. We did the complete circuit, and then jumped on it again to go inside the city hall and St. Michaelis church. We bought tickets and took the elevator to the top of the tower. It was a cold, foggy November day but we could glimpse the grandeur not just from the water, but now from above!

We then booked it on foot to make it to the central station to take the tram to Aunt Maria’s house. Almut was also there, and spent the evening in conversation and dinner. I learn so much during these times.

Nathanael and I got back somewhat late, and then had to plan the public transpo connections for the next day. He wanted to soak up as much as he could from Hamburg again, so we woke up at 5:15 to eat breakfast and make it to the St. Pauli Fish Market at 7am, at opening. We spent an hour there before taking the tram from the Reeperbahn to Quickborn for our 25 km race. They called it a “street run,” but I remember more mud, dirt, gravel, and manure than I do streets! No complaints though, I really enjoyed this one loop 15 mile stretch through the German farming countryside. I think I’ve become addicted to these endurance runs for two reasons. One, I am thankful for every step that I can take, especially when I think of friends, family members, athletes, and service men and women who can no longer run or even walk. Second, there is no better feeling that wanting to give up and quit, and but holding through and spitting at the finish line on that inner beast.

After the run, Nathanael and I showered and gorged on the provided apples, bananas and tea before he left in advance in order to spend as much time with Aunt Eva, since he had to depart only a couple hours later. I waited for his certificate and prizes for winning first place in his age group. When I finally made it back to Eva’s flat, we had tomato rice soup and the best combination ever that Eva gave me last time: camembert cheese and banana on a fresh bread. Once again, she praised beer (practically forcing me to drink two longnecks), telling me that it’s healthy and makes muscles. Turns out, she had asked Nathanael earlier if he wanted something to drink. He respectfully requested tea, and she told him that beer and water were only offered there! She’s such a classy German lady, who nevertheless tells it the way it is!

Nathanael dialed home, and I could sea how much Eva enjoyed speaking with my father and mother. The afternoon became the evening, and Nathanael had to go. Eva drove us nicely to the train station, and we said our quick goodbyes.

Then Nathanael had to go too. It was weird parting with him, especially because I don’t know when I will ever see him again in the near future. He’s coming home next summer from his exchange most likely after I start my officer branch training following graduation. Before I left, I told him though that it wasn’t an English goodbye, but rather a German goodbye: “see you again!”

Monday, November 12, 2007

Dusseldorf and Essen

On Thursday, our Wohnebene hat a weekly administrative meeting followed by steaks and bratwursts and potatoe salad. That was a good time because we were all together. Everybody has their own schedule here and its rare to eat communally.

On Saturday morning, I took the train to Dusseldorf where I met Nathanael at the ticket office. Until then, my only knowledge of Dusseldorf had been from Wikipedia and Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory whose chocolate-addicted boy came from there!

Nathanael and I did our usual....walking around with no destination or purpose just to take pictures and check out a new town. Once again we decided to not buy a map; its too fun to turn a corner and run into something cool and/or beautiful. It was a cold day, but the streets were nevertheless full of upper-class people at sit-down cafes or stand-up (Alt) beer bars. Dirk later said that this is a well-known characteristic of Dusseldorf residents.


Nathanael had brought a lunch from his host family, but since they were three different kinds of rolls, we each took and traded the top or bottom with cheese.


We wanted to keep walking, so we bought two jugs of milk, some cheese, and some poppyseed cake....stuff that didn't need utensils. As we continued our walk, we found a dog snacks bakery/bar/buffett. Two couples were in there with their dogs as they selected various dog biscuits, exotically flavored with fruits and meats. She was explaining the flavors as Nathanael bought some to give to his host family when the lady took a banana biscuit and shoved it into our face! "Here, you can try this one!" We were so alarmed, that we both actually each ate the dog biscuit." Looking back we joked, "Man, we were so full from lunch that the last thing we wanted to do was eat, and we ended up eating dog food of all things!"



On our way to the train station, we passed a store called "Food from Home," where we bought some Dr. Pepper to give to the guest family, as I haven't seen that or root beer in Europe. The little things!

We had about an hour trip via tram and bus to Velbert. We shopped a little bit for cheap, quality clothes and then we had to rush back to his guest family because they had a party for their tennis club.

On Sunday, we woke up early to take the public transpo back to Dusseldorf. However, Dirk offered to take us there by car, for which we were really thankful!

The half marathon was a one lap course through the city park/nature-protection area. It rained lightly off and on, providing a nice mud carpet to run through... That sure beats pavement, and makes rounding sharp corners interesting!

It only began to pour as we were sipping hot tea at the finish line, so we sprinted in to take showers in a packed changing room and shower....It reminded me of the days of football, except now only my legs hurt, not my entire body!

Monika, Dirk, and Adrian were stuck in traffic, so we waited for the certificates as we savored waffles, coffee, and milk. We ate some delicious leftovers from his birthday party on Friday, and then went to Essen with the guest parents. Like every year, the city puts on a light art theme...this year it was Norway and was quite impressive.

Dirk treated us to various festive delicacies: "Krapfen," "Flannkuchen," and "Stutenuerl." We concluded by going to a cafe (and because we weren't from Dusseldorf, providentially, sat inside!) where we talked before we set our goodbyes and I took the late train back to Hamburg.


That couple has been so nice to me. They signed up to have a exchange student, Nathanael, and somehow got me too! They have been so generous, and I am always so surprised when they actually looked excited to see me. I figured they'd be so bitter!

Nathanael's German is pretty much now at the point where he corrects me, but I don't care. I'm here to learn! I still think its unbelievable that I have been given this opportunity to see so many German cities and meet such genuinely nice people.

Monday, November 5, 2007

Nathanael visits me in Hamburg

Another good week! Some highlights: On Wednesday, an officer here invited me and Kyle to play soccer with some friends at a Sports Club. Starting at 9pm, we played on the indoor turf field that he had rented out. Then we went into the clubhouse and watched the highlight/match recap reels.

On Thursday after class, I took the metro systems and visited Tante Maria again in her flat. We had evening bread and cheese and talked. We talked about her trip to Sweden, my trip to Switzerland, and about each member of my family. Going there to pick up a boodle package that my mother had sent me turned into quite a wonderful evening!

After class on Friday, I took the train to Tostedt to meet my brother Nathanael, under the care of Jochen and Irene, a very warm and generous couple who live in a beautiful German village nearby. We had coffee and cake, sat and talked for two hours before eating classic German guesthouse food. We then went back to their home, and with German folk music in the background and a fire crackling in the pit, talked about everything from family, politics, Germany, and the economy. For the most part due to my ignorance of the last three topics, Nathanael and I just listened and learned!


On Saturday morning, they drove us up to Hamburg where we parked on the south side of the Elbe. We walked through an underground (actually, underwater) tunnel to the Hamburg Harbor where he reflected on old memories as a child there with his mother and as a merchant marine. One learns the most about a city when one has a guide like that!

They dropped us off at the main station, where we took the tram to a soccer game between Hamburg SV and Hertha Berlin. What an experience that was… The platform was so crowded I couldn’t check my watch, and we stood in the tram between two opposing parties who traded fightsongs and insults. The match was also incredible, and Hamburg scored the tie-breaking goal in the last minutes!

We then just did our normal thing, walking throughout the city. Providentially, we didn’t have our backpacks with us and the evening didn’t turn into a pre-race “warmup!” Throughout our walk, we savored various German delicacies, starting from salty to sweet: sandwiches, pretzels, rolls, and pastries. We weren’t up to another “meal in the park” like in Cologne, and we didn’t want to sit down for dinner. We just kept walking..and eating!

We woke up early on Sunday to visit the famous St. Pauli Fish Market, which was a lot bigger than we both expected. We therefore had to rush through it before taking the train to catch our half marathon across the Elbe. I knew Nathanael was having a good time, despite being up extra early before a race, when he said that we were definitely going back next time!

The half marathon in Hamburg-Neugraben was pretty painful for both of us. He had just recovered from a sickness, and I entertained the thoughts of just veering to the side and stopping! Prayer sure helped... The race took place near a region called “Alten Land,” which Jochen said is one of the main fruit producing areas in Europe. The post-race energy table had bananas and huge apple slices that proved Jochen right!

Waiting for the awards ceremony sucked up a lot of time, and by the time we cooked a mid-afternoon dinner (lunner we called it), it was time to walk comfortably back to the train station to see him off back to Essen. It was sure sad to see him off.

We, once again, had a great weekend together and are very thankful for it.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Running (and regreftully not skiing) in Switzerland)

While at the Goethe Institute in September, I met a Peruvian social worker who lives in Switzerland. Knowing that I enjoy running events on the weekends, she invited me to spend the weekend with her family in Basel.

In the airport, I had a unique choice. As a result of Euroairport's unique geography, I had the option of going left to enter France or going right to enter Switzerland.

After going right and taking a bus to the main station, I did my usual, wandering around the city with no aim or purpose except to just take pictures, hear people speak, and join in when the opportunities present themselves (aka buying or sampling things). Immediately after hearing the local dialect, I thought of a family friend, Annemarie, who comes from Switzerland.

After about 5 hours, it became time for me to find my way to the stadium to pick up my start numbers for the Basel Half. However, since I don't have a printer in my room, I had scribbled down the times and location on a memo pad. Bad idea: like the son of a doctor, I couldn't read my handwriting. Searching the map of Basel for anything that resembled my jibberish, I was about to search for an internet cafe when a 50 year old man or so spotted me and came over to talk. We stood there and he told me proudly about his city and about his Friday routine (and that of many locals): after work on Friday, go to the bar for a couple of hours. Then go home, eat dinner, put on their best, and go out to the clubs. For having fun, he seemed rather punctual about it all! He even gave me his phone number if I wanted to join him, adding that his invitation only lasted on Friday because he had plans for Saturday!




Using the directions that he had given me, I found my way, grabbed my kit, and made it to Viky and Patrick's house. We had dinner together, and then they for a church planning function. When their son Stephan came home, I sat with him as he ate. Choosing my favorite topics (not) of Iraq and Afghanistan (drilled alot over here), he asked me alot of questions. He was surprised to hear that American soldiers could be Christians and that we were volunteers. Its interesting to observe European preceptions of America(ns).

On Saturday morning, they dropped me off at the race as they drove across the border to Germany to shop (cheaper). A Swiss engineer and I became friends at the start and ended up finishing together, sprinting against one another at the end. We talked after the race with his girlfriend who also ran. They were honored to see that my backpack was Victorinox!

I went back to Vicky, Patrick's, and Stephans house where I collapsed into a mid-afternoon nap (something I don't ever really do, especially when I am in a foreign country), but the run had drained me. After my slumber, we ate wonderful Swiss fondue and then went out to Basel for the Fall Fair where we rode Theme Park rides that covered the city and talked lightheartedly about things other than war and politics!

On Sunday, we went to church, toured the ruins of an old castle, watched Stephan play soccer, and I flew back. A short weekend in Switzerland, but a good one. Next time, God willing, I'de love to be able to ski on those Alps!

Monday, October 22, 2007

In Saxony, my favorite German state

On Tuesday, I spent some time with Tante Maria, Almut, and Elsbeth for coffee and cake. They questioned me constantly about my Mother and Grandmother, who they all miss and with whom they have so many good memories.

On Saturday Morning I woke up early and took the train to Dresden..it was packed, loud, and somewhat miserable and was therefore very excited to arrive! What a beautiful city it is! I particularly selected this site over other new choices like Amsterdam and Munich because I wanted to run through it. I remember runnning through it once when I was with my father there, hoping that that training run wouldn't be my last.
I really love Saxony, perhaps a biased opinion because I spent a month in it during the summer with the Germany infantry. However, the landscapes are very open and beautiful. Saxons seem to get a bad rap here in Hamburg from the other officers.. a common theme is..."Those Saxons think differently and come from a kingdom that has never won a war!"

Before and after picking up my start number, I just bummed around and through the city.

I met a crazy Texan, a Brazilan, and three Australians in my hostel room and we watched on Saturday night the rugby world final between South Africa and England. I have to admit: this period of time did absolutely nothing to help my German!

The race on Sunday was a cold 4 degrees Celcius. The report said occasional hail but I don't remember hard rain, just alot of "soft" rain! Let's just say that I never felt like I was going to become dehydrated. Providentially, I had bought two weekends before a long-sleeve thermal running top.

The course was everthing I wanted it to be. There were many points where I have special memories with my father, and therefore I thought of him alot!

I spent the first two hours of the ride until Berlin speaking with a German doctor and a woman from Belarus. I had to switch seats because they were reserved from Berlin to Hamburg, and then spent the next two hours speaking with two Germany secretaries.

The ride went by very fast and the constant German speaking (i think and hope) made up for Saturday night.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Bremerhaven and Zeven with Opa and Ingrid

On Saturday morning I took the train to Bremerhaven, where my grandfather, Hans, and Ingrid live. Bremerhaven is struggling city with high unemployment and dirty streets. Yet Bremerhaven is a special city for me because that’s where my grandfather “Opa” lives. After Plebe year I visited him before Buckner. I couldn’t speak German, and he couldn’t/can’t speak English. It was an awkward time, for many sad reasons.

I remember “saying” goodbye and boarding the plane, disappointed and ashamed that I had been unable to communicate with a member of my family. That fall I selected German to be my major.

Finally I could speak with him; I didn’t even feel like a foreigner; we talked as if we’d known each other for a long time! Ingrid is also such a sweetheart…something I didn’t realize before when we couldn’t communicate.







Man, German (confidence) goes up and down! In my classes at the university, I feel like a little kid. Then, in the trains, I’m jealous of the little kids who speak better German than I do! But with Opa, it was all good.

When we arrived, we walked to a market and got some food. You guessed it…bread, meat and cheese. Staples! We then walked around his quarter of Bremerhaven and along the harbor. There were a lot of old ships and even an old submarine. After that, we enjoyed an ice cream cone…

We dropped off Ingrid as she cooked a firewood dinner and then walked to a internet cafe to call Mom (his daughter) for cheap. It was probably very emotional for him; I asked why they didn't talk longer, and he said that they were all sitting together and having breakfast. We had our candlelight dinner in his flat, and went to bed really early because they were both tired and he doesn’t have a television.

Trying to find the race location on Sunday morning was somewhat of an adventure, but with God’s blessings we made it! Trick: if you’re ever lost…try this- Stop the car, stand in the middle of the road, and ask for help!

He is such a gentlemen: he still tips his hat to the people he meets, looks people in the eye and say’s thank you, and told me that I needed to shave on race day. “Ah Grandpa, I’m just going to go running.” “No, you’ll look better!” He also doesn’t waste a thing.

The half marathon in Zeven was very special. At the finish line, I had the opportunity to honor him for being my grandfather and allowing me to stay with him; he started crying. He also enjoyed the food and beverages provided for the runners post race. I kept going back and forth ferrying him butter cake, soda, juice, apples, and bananas. Finally I said, “Okay Opa, I’m going to shower now. This is my last round…what do you want!“More butter cake,” he said!

It’s always sad to say goodbye to him. But at least this time, unlike two years ago, I could do it all in German.

Monday, October 8, 2007

Yep, back in Cologne

On Wednesday, I met at Dammtor station in Hamburg Almut, the sister of Tilmann, who I stayed with in Hannover. Right nearby is a huge city park with multiple themed gardens, playareas for children, and running paths. After that, she gave me a walking tour of Hamburg that led to the harbor. Good tip she told me: instead of spending buggo bucks for tourist ships at foreign ports, just buy a domestic ferry ticket as if you live there and need to get around. It was an hour loop down and back. It was, however, the German Day of Unity and we saw mostly backs and backpacks of the many families out and about!

On Friday, I rode to Fuhlsbuettel station in Hamburg to meet my (quasi) aunt Eva, an older lady very dear to my parents and grandmother...and me! We had evening bread, and she was "offended/shocked" that I didn't put any butter on my bread, and then when I put too little. Bottom line: smear on that butter, even if you're going to mound on cheese or meat! She then gave me a beer and said that it was good for me, like "liquid bread." I've heard of wine and chocolate being healthy, but that was a first! We calmly watched the evening news, some television, and then I slept on her coach so that could take me to the main train station for my ride to Cologne.

Yep, back in Cologne... the rendezvous place for me and my bro Nathanael! We met like last time: on the steps leading to the Cologne Cathedral...pretty impressive! We shared the packed sandwiches that we had each brought, and then walked through the city. The pedestrian way was sticky full of shoppers.....and we kept circling around until we crossed the river and went to the Marathon Expo in the Convention Center, where we picked up our startnumbers and goody bags full of samples and coupons to buy this and buy that from the Expo's stifling multitude of stands and vendors.
We then walked back across the river to find our hostel, which was on the other side of the city. We had been walking around all day with our daypacks, and underway had to stop and have a little motivational team huddle. We laughed because we had been speaking German to one another all day; nationals must have thought we were very poorly educated Germans!
Along the way we stopped at a market and a bakery to buy food for the night and the morning. We FINALLY reached the hostel, dropped off our backpacks *phew*, and were so hungry that we went outside to find a place to eat our picnic...we had new utensils, no plates, nothing, just food! Pretty pathetic, but we laughed alot and had a good time. We got pretty self-conscious when people kept laughing at us, sitting on a bench, using pen edges to open up our packages of food, that we retreated to a dimly lit patch of trees. Good times! At the end, we both acknowledged: "...so, this is why people go out to eat!" (We later found out that the hostel had a fully equipped kitchen with plates, silverware, and tables, rubbing salt in our wounds!)

We then walked down the strips, had ice cream at 11 o'clock at night, and then went to bed. We never saw the daylight faces of our fellow roommates. We left quietly in the morning, ran the race, and they were gone when we came back from the race. This half marathon was huge and ran through the heart of the city (unlike the first in Cologne, which was smaller and was a 3 loop park course). Nevertheless an honor once again to run with my bro. After the race we were greeted with a gauntlet of food and drink: exceptional highlights included dark bread with smeared white pig fat with salt and two sorts of beer, even Koelsch- a city speciality.
We then met up with his guest family and had lunch. The full marathon was going on and we got to watch that as we walked (slowly and awkwardly) through the city. Dirk and Monica, thank you so much for putting up with me, sacrificing your time and money, and allowing me to interfere with Nathanael's exchange experience!



We eventually parted ways and I took the four hour train back to Hamburg...
*****
I really love the picture below...it pretty much speaks of my experience so far in Germany: walking around with a backpack, carrying a water bottle, in a beautiful city...

Twice I've been blessed to do it with my brother Nathanael. Geoff, Jordan, and Marin: we're going to have to plan to do something special together too. I love you all.

Sunday, September 30, 2007

Bremen

On Friday I took a afternoon train to Bremen. Hamburg and Bremen are the only two city states left in Germany, and supposedly they have a history of harsh competition.

I bummed around in, out, through, and across the city streets. There is a real joy in that, arriving in a foreign train station and just walking around with no point or purpose. There was a market going on, with family produced cheese, fish, meet, and exotic fruits and vegetables. I handscooped a medley of Dutch black licorice to send to my family...I was kind of disappointed when the lady sealed the bag when I gave it to her to weigh...I wanted to try some dad gummit!




The post office experience was quite funny....as a tribute to the Germans not accepting credit cards, I was told that I had to pay with cash for my two packages and letters. The line (end of the month) was out the door, so I asked him if I could leave my rucksack behind (as a deposit) as I ran outside to find the nearest bank. I couldn't believe it...He said yes!

After picking up my start kit/number for the run, I took the metro system to the parents of the gal who hosted me that weekend, Birgit, for Abendbrot which consisted of light meats, cheeses, marmalades, and honey on fresh baked rolls.

On Saturday morning at Birgit's house (1 husband, 1 son, 2 daughters, 1 dog, n Arabian horses, and n sheep), we had morning breakfast which consisted of the same food as the night before. No complaints! Open face sandwiches always taste good! We first visited their local villages of Fischerhude and Quelkhorn...beautiful gardens, ducks on the river, and old German house/farm architecture.We then drove back to the central city for a harbor festival. I visted there the German maritime school ship, the only remaining classic of its kind. which was used to train midshipmen long ago. Unfortunately (at least on my end), there was a wedding down below and we couldn't tour the interior.

We then ate sandwiches that I had made from leftovers from breakfast... German rolls, butter, cheese, ham, and cucumbers. Epic!

After that, we were driving towards the old party of the city when we passed the Beck's beer brewery. She veered off, parked, and I ended up joining a factory tour that was already 30 minutes underway. It was interesting to see how beer was/is made, and even more interesting after 2 hours of all talk to finally have not only taste tests, but fresh beer not on the house, if you say, but right from the house!


We then continued to the historic old city (from a map, one can see the undeveloped parts of the city where the medieval moat was). Wow..Birgit was able to show me awesome nooks, coves, and crannies in the abdomen of this awesome city that I never found with my ignorant trip on my own the day before.

We made it home and I gladly ate another round of German "chronic meal food." 4 meals in a row of the same thing, and all smiles!....o wait, make that five: breakfast the next morning before the half marathon.

The race through Bremen was once again amazing. Along the harbor, through the old streets, in the park. We even got to run through the Werder Bremen Fussball stadium. Wahoo! My German teacher would have been proud.

Within one minute or finishing the 21 kilometer run was I greated with a huge glass of Non-Alcoholic beer. When I told Birgit that it actually tasted pretty good, she jibbed"You'are in Bremen...you will say that Beck's is the best!" Shamed and corrected, I told her Erdinger probably tasted good because I was thirsty!

The parents of Birgit invited me over for a shower and a meal after the run, and then I returned back to Bremen's nemesis: Hamburg. Another good weekend!

******
For the races we sometimes get a t-shirt, a medal, a certificate, or a combination thereof. Of anything, though, I value the startnumber paper that I safety-pin to my shirt. I remember how my brother Jordan back home still has his cross-country numbers. Twice there have been raffles were the runners after the race throw in their startnumber signs in order to win! No way! I am most proud of my startnumber!


Sorry to bore you with "fun facts."

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Hannover and Hemmingen

On Saturday I enjoyed sleeping in and took a 1.5 hour train to Hannover. Pretty impressive train station....it has a good selection of restaurants and stores: a nice advantage because stores located in here (even the supermarket) can be open on Sundays...




The weather was beautiful. With nothing really to do, I started meandering through the streets. Hannover has a cool red line painted on the ground that snakes through the city, highlighting the key historic or cultural sites.

I spent a good amount of time on the canal, browsing through a fleamarket. I put a toy flintlock pistol (at least i think its a toy) with 1897 engraved on it. They don't make "toys" like this anymore.



Hannover is a very beautiful city; it was heavily bombed during World War II, and it seems like there was no mandate or concensus regarding its recontruction (please correct me!) as some buildings looked original, renovated to look original, or modern...all juxtaposed next to one another.

I rendezvoused with Tilmann and his two children. Don't ask me how they're related to my family: we'd have to be in the jungle to have a suitable family tree. We visited his prima store, where he both sells and builds pianos. After that we went home, had coffee and cake with his wife Petra, and then went on a 1 hour bike ride through an awesome park and through the city. Then back again for an awesome stir fry dinner. Super cool sons they have: you should see the way they open up their mouths and laugh when they're parents joke!

After that we watched television, had chocolate (o yeah, after already having ice cream (twice in the city), coffee and cake, and strawberries for dessert), and then went to bed.


On Sunday we woke up early and drove to a Hiddestorf, a village south of Hannover. A true Volksfest, it was more about family and community than expensive timing devices or start gates. The Rübenlauf half marathon was (finally) a single loop course through farm pastures, black forests, backyards, streets,....Germany! There is such a real joy, a sense of "am i really here?" that I feel when I am running through towns and villages that have been here for centuries! I express my gratitude by saying "thank you-danke" to the kids and families who cheer the runners on. I am never bored, and won't wear headphones. I love the feeling of it all, hearing the sound of my feet pounding the ground competing with my breath, the birds in the sky, the other runners....

After about 2o minutes, I usually second-guess why I've paid money to do this.... "I'm not even a third of the way done!" Yet I think one reason why I run is is the knowledge that health is a gift and I want to take advantage of being able to walk while I have it. I think of my friend Kip Johnson and how hard he works 7 days a week just to walk. He's a better man than most.

After the race were multiple stations with free bread and jelly, a malz drink, baquettes with cheese, salami, and wine. After that feast, I went and bought 2 different homemade pastries: an apple "pie" and a "chocolate" cake that turned out to be so stuffed with poppyseeds it was black!
Getting back to Hamburg was long and complicated, but it was another great weekend. Thank you God!

Monday, September 17, 2007

At the coast

So a second week of German class is complete. Learning the language has been very humbling, but I have really enjoyed the class so far with the other international students. These are engineers, social workers, businessmen, and doctors who give up their education to appear like dumb, fumbling children. We all struggle but struggle with and learn from another.

On Thursday I played volleyball with the team here. Most of the officers are gone so it was a very low-key practice/scrimmage. Let's just say that though I had a good time, I'm better off just sticking to running. My fun there isn't intruding on anybody else's! O yeah, I was indirectly told to never come back!

On Friday I took a train ride north to Otterndorf. This village is right down the road from where my grandmother and grandfather grew up in Neuenkirchen. My relative and gracious host Maria picked me up in the city and spoiled me with an amazing dinner. We talked for a while after, and then I went running with a flashlight in the pitch black. I came back around 10 and figured that she would want to go to bed. Nope! We had dessert and talked the night away. Whereas I stumble and talk like I'm in a traffic jam in class, I seem to do much better when I'm just socializing with family.

On Saturday morning, I once again was spoiled with an amzing breakfast. We then went walking through Otterndorf and hit up a florist on the way to bring to family friends, whom we visited. After that, we had leftovers for lunch and then purchased flowers again from the same florist before visiting other family friends. After that went to a southern-German-style restaurant and ordered very nontypical food from that region....fish! It sure tasted good, but it wasn't on their menu!

The half marathon course on sunday was just beautiful. It went through the village (think cobblestone streets), along a canal (lonely and windy), and along the sandy banks of the Elbe river (you'de think it was the ocean). Running through Germany has been quite an experience so far, but I have one complaint: half marathons aren't exactly great photo-taking opportunities.

After the race, Maria spoiled me once again (it's a common theme with Germans, hosting, and food i think) with dinner before she dropped me off at the train station for the trip back to Hamburg.

When I finally made it to my room at 10, I found out via email that my Uncle had passed away. That was last night, and I was out of phone minutes and wasn't able to call my father to mourn with him, my grandmother to tell her about my time in her birthplace, and my mother who too has many memories of this place.

Sorry to bore you all!

Sunday, September 9, 2007

One Long Week of Goethe Institute Down and Quick Trip to Berlin

So, for the last week I've been studying with other German-speaking wannabe's from Italy, Spain, Syria, and Switzerland from 9-1330 daily after a 30 minute commute to the heart of downtown Hamburg.
I have a solid professor who brings alot of energy to the classroom. Unfortunately, she says that my accent is horrible; so far, I haven't progressed from saying the German "A" right (ahhhh). At this rate, I'll be luckly if I graduate D before the course expires after 4 weeks.
.....

On Saturday I left midday for the 2 hour express train to Berlin. After arriving at the train station, I navigated my way to pick up my race packet for the 2007 Mercedes-Benz Berlin Half Marathon in the Western corner of Berlin to then have to reach the heart of East Berlin. In retrospect, I should have planned a little better but it forced me to interact and learn my way. My stop for the hostel looked like the dumps from the train station and the walk within, but Warschauer Strasse turned out to be a cradle of hip international bars and restaurants, everything from Sudanese to Thai. There were hundreds of young people, and I'de like to go back there when I didn't have to get up and run the next day.

The run turned out well... As soon as it was done I got my bag and caught the next train back to Hamburg. Was traveling to Berlin for one night worth it? Probably not, considering that one could stay in Berlin for a week and not claim it. However, it did put me out of my comfort zone(again) and force me to end up in a different place where I had to ask questions to get around.

The night in the 8 bed hostel room turned out quite well... I was actually able to get some sleep, and never got stabbed or robbed between the hourly wakeups everytime somebody came or left! Phew!

I feel like a chump now that I haven't utilized hostels better in the past...that bed was 11 Euros....why have I spent 10x that just so that I can have a television, bathroom, and shower. O wait...there is something priceless about locking the door from strangers before one starts counting the sheep! Nah, i figure I'll earn the right to sleep in a hotel room someday.

Sunday, September 2, 2007

Weekend with Nathanael and the Birrenbach Family in North Rhine-Westphalia

What a solid first weekend in Germany this was! On Friday one of the German officers gave me a ride to the main Hamburg train station from which I took a four hour train to Cologne. I had about three hours to myself to see the city again before meeting up with my dear bro Nathanael who was attending a German culture school before his yearlong student exchange program.

We then were picked up by his host family and spent a wonderful evening at their home.



We woke up early Saturday morning and went to the German mining museum in Bochum. All I can say is that I've been very fortunate to never have had to work in the deep dangerous black depths of the earth for coal and salt.
We then went to Cologne Stadium and picked up our race packets in preparation for "die Genearalprobe" half marathon. Being me, I ended up running the wrong way on the last lap and had to backtrack towards the finish line (no, I don't want to do another 7 kilometer loop!). It was an honor to run alongside my brother, who being six years younger than me, I still consider to be one of my best friends.

On Sunday Nathanael and I went to church (not really understanding anything at all) and then went to Mülheim to watch a dragon boat race and eat some bratwursts and ice cream.



A good day that closed an even greater weekend.

The host family prepared a slideshow of the museum and the race at http://adrian-birrenbach.fotoalbum-medion.de/

Thursday, August 30, 2007

23-B-24

Well, I am pretty much settled in. Everybody here, from the uni's admin to the German officer-students, have been taken care of me. So far we've (Kyle and I) worked through getting our quarters, setting up internet connectivity, squaring away our transportation (the German's seem to want a (different) ID for every system and/or service), buying groceries, and trying to find our way around Hamburg.

It's been very enjoyable to have a shared-kitchen here and prepare my own meals. We have to clean up our dishes within 30 minutes or else we have to pay one Euro to the Wohnebene fund. The mess hall is located on the other post and is only open for breakfast and lunch. The prices are also a bit uneconomic and so I am cooking (or trying to cook) both out of prudence and pleasure.

Today we had our daily meeting with our administrative POC here and then I've been studying French and German (couldn't ask for a better day).

They have a big fridge with an even bigger selection of drinks. We restocked it today and got rid of the old bottles. Now I'm going to exercise and then cook dinner.

It's an amazing life here, so foreign from West Point. The German (military) university system values academic freedom. They allow their students to choose their classes and when they take them. There's hardly any formations or duties except to learn. They say that we need to develop the life skills of cooking, doing laundry, studying, maintaining physical fitness and at the same time valuing our friends and family.

The German officer development system is a little different from the US'. Each officer cadet must serve three years in the Army, working his or her way up the enlisted ranks, before attending their academic studies. They are commissioned now, and will resume their service after the completion of their military duties. This time is supposed to be their break...a time to focus and learn before going back to "the real job."

Classes haven't started yet for me, but this is going to be a break, i think, for me too. Why God has blessed me with this opportunity I don't know. All I can say is that I must take advantage of this opportunity and learn as much as I can about the German officer corps, the language(s), living independently, and stewardship.

For now,
Lawrence